Hands Up: Julie de Libran

July 7, 2022

NEWFOUND AGILITY

“I’ve always been very crafty. I started making my own clothes at 14, cutting them, patching them up. When I presented my models to Marc Jacobs, or Miuccia Prada, it was always on busts,” recalls Julie de Libran, who worked alongside these iconic designers before eventually starting her own label. “Usually, I draw, I drape. For the past two seasons, I’ve gone back to draping, moulding and sewing on my own. Giving myself this time again is quite magical. It’s a night job. I retreat into my bubble. It gives me a lot of energy and strength. I particularly like muslin, you can play with it, even if it’s very challenging because the seams are delicate. This season, I had fun making patches of materials, I make several stories collide. I like to surround myself with a know-how that I try to celebrate by calling on feather makers, embroiderers, the petits mains. It’s extremely inspiring and it’s what makes me dream the most about this job that I have been doing for thirty years.

Courtesy of Julie de Libran

“Fashion is a whole universe that enables us to tell a story, just like music or photography. There are very light materials, flying, very fluid, like muslin embroidered with feathers. There are guipures, various lace. It is as if sequins that had lived are again restored, embellished. A large linen becomes a coat dress, a recycled cotton faille polyester structures the volume that begins with a huge hood. I started from a photo that greatly inspired me: Amber Valetta in New York by Peter Lindbergh. She is dressed in white, the embodiment of serenity.  There will be a fashion show at my place with 25 silhouettes: I try to give a new life to materials, embroidery; to pieces from a collaboration with Ères, embellished with Swarovski crystals, which gives them a magic, a light. The emphasis is on white, black, silver, jacquards, lurex, brocades. In 2022, I feel a newfound agility that allows me to take flight in my own way. Everything starts with the dress, so versatile, which can be worn in different ways. The title of the collection is La force des anges – the strength of angels.

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