Interview Olivier Theyskens for his very first Azzaro Couture collection

July 6, 2020

“I wanted to convey the sophistication of the clothes with a muse that is free in her gesture and attitude”. Olivier Theyskens unveils his first creations for Azzaro.

The very first creations revealed in the video pay tribute to the Azzaro heritage. What does it mean to you?

It has been natural for me to express a strong Heritage theme at the core of the creation, especially for the reveal of the first designs I have created for the house of Azzaro.

You have chosen to give carte blanche for the video to an inspiring team of young talents, featuring singer Sylvie Kreusch, Cannes-awarded director Lukas Dhont or prominent stylist Tom Eerebout, all under 30. Why did you made this choice? 

I love the universe of Sylvie and the work of Lukas and Tom. I trusted all of them to create something strong, free and unexpected. I was anticipating to welcome their vision and felt proud we were able to give them total freedom. We know each other enough and deeply respect each other as creatives.

Could you tell us what Seedy Tricks is about and how it relates to your first pieces for Azzaro? 

This song is one of the strongest song from Sylvie‘s last album. It wasn’t supported by a video though and when we start talking about the collaboration I quickly understood there is a hidden story about the notion of desire and illusion that Sylvie wanted to communicate with this song and which would generate amazing imageries with Lukas’ camera. I loved that my designs could integrate Sylvie’s story as looks within her dreams or within the reality of her character. The early 80’s aesthetics of the video are directional with the team desire to transport us in a sort of dreamy time capsule.

Loris Azzaro has always been anticonformist, the video is quite iconoclastic, was Loris unconventional spirit an obvious source of inspiration for this first release? What anticonformism means to you in 2020?

I think that today there is a desire for quality and for something essential and truly authentic and although the spirit of the house is originally strong with the notion of anti-conformism it is great that in today’s fashion landscape we can bring together beauty, sophistication, class, couture and freedom while feeling totally aligned with the inner philosophy of the house.

This collection was developed during quarantine, how did it all come together in such a challenging period? 

We were not the least un-inspired during these times! Of course we had to adapt and remain open minded everyday depending on how everything was evolving. We happen to get to know each other in an unusual manner as a team and I personally see this as a positive opportunity to know each other better and reinforce our bounds. As a creative I am used to communicate my ideas so it wasn’t there that the challenge was. The trick was more with the making of the toiles by a dispersed staff and waiting for the reopening of the embroidery ateliers etc.. our planning got shaken more than once!

The Azzaro women is infused with the 70’s motto about living the moment, not searching for hard power but to experience life. Why did you chose Sylvie Kreusch as a muse? 

I love Sylvie’s ease when she dances. I wanted to convey the sophistication of the clothes with a muse that is free in her gesture and attitude.

We can see some masculine looks on the video too, it looks very strong, could you tell us more? Is there a masculine collection as well?

Sylvie has this androgynous facet that I love and I showed her some pieces of our menswear new collection. She decides with the team to use menswear clothes in the video for the static scenes which represent the reality versus the dream scenes where she evolves wearing the couture womenswear.

We will unveil our menswear collection throughout the season through other medias and I can’t wait to present more of it.

This is your very first Couture collection, your first collection for Azzaro, and your first digital week, it is a year of reinvention! What is your state of mind in these tough times?

I have been lucky to be able at multiple times to create couture designs in the past at different occasions and I am thrilled to be able to do more with this project! In my view the Couture of Azzaro is about the dream but also it has a reality that is tangible in the way that the women doesn’t feel herself costumed or wearing something impractical. I want to sublime the wearer in a sophisticate manner with absolutely exquisite clothes that are not overly complicated. I feel this is the right thing for today’s women and for the House. 

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